I decided to start off my summer break with a much-needed haircut after neglecting to get a trim for a couple of months. As I settled into the salon chair and watched chunks of hair fall to the ground, I couldn't help but feel a mix of relief and excitement. Despite having to get used to a slightly shorter look, my hair instantly looked healthier and more vibrant. It was a refreshing change from the split end situation I’d been dealing with for far too long.
Split ends, scientifically known as “trichoptilosis,” occur when the outside layer of hair, the cuticle, gradually wears away. This can happen due to various factors such as heat styling, chemical treatments, rough handling, or simply gradual wear and tear. When the cuticle is damaged, the hair’s inner layer, the cortex, becomes exposed and starts to fray, resulting in split ends. Unfortunately, once the end of your hair splits, there’s no turning back. Despite what is often advertised, there is no magical product that can permanently glue your split ends back together. Haircuts are the only effective way to get rid of split ends, giving them a snip of no return.
There are numerous hair oils, serums, and conditioners on the market with the purpose of repairing split ends. These products cannot permanently repair split ends, but they can temporarily mend them. For example, protein-based conditioners, composed of hydrolyzed protein fragments, can penetrate damaged hair shafts and temporarily mend split ends.
Conditioners deposit positive ions, thereby reducing the negative charge of the hair. The hydrolyzed protein fragments in conditioners are attracted to keratin. This binding temporarily strengthens the hair shaft and holds cortex fragments together by restoring lost proteins in damaged hair. The smaller the protein fragments, the better they are able to penetrate and remain inside the hair shaft. A longer contact time also contributes to increased efficiency of conditioning, allowing proteins to penetrate the hair. Moreover, protein conditioners coat the cuticle, adding to the hair’s shine, softness, and manageability. However, all of these effects are temporary because the excess protein penetrating the hair shaft is removed during the next shampooing. Reapplication of conditioner is necessary to maintain the conditioning effect, which is a temporary fix to manage hair until you make it to the hair salon for a trim.
Another ingredient often found in conditioners is silicone. Silicones lubricate and reduce friction, making for easier detangling and combing. They also enhance shine, and have anti-frizz properties. However, like protein-based conditioners, their effects are temporary and will wash away with the next shampooing.
Now, let’s talk about all the natural remedies that claim to repair split ends. From castor oil to argan oil, almond oil, coconut oil, egg yolk, and aloe vera, the internet is awash with DIY treatments that promise to work wonders on your split ends. While these treatments might give your hair a temporary moisture boost, there isn’t enough reliable scientific evidence to support their effectiveness in repairing split ends.
Here are some tips to prevent split ends in the first place: Handle and comb your hair gently to avoid unnecessary stress on the strands. Regularly condition and moisturize your hair. Protect your hair from excessive sunlight exposure, as UV rays can damage the cuticle. Minimize heat styling by avoiding blow dryers, straighteners, and curlers whenever possible. Avoid harsh chemical processes such as bleaching, as it can weaken the hair. Be gentle when combing out styling products like hairsprays, mousses, and gels to avoid tugging and pulling on the strands.
And most importantly, embrace the snip! Regular trims are your best defense against split ends. Your hair will thank you for it.
Hosna Akhgary is a BSc candidate at McGill University, majoring in Pharmacology.
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